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Kenya Safari Diary – Day 6: Lessons in Stillness, Strength, and Goodbye

🌅 The Final Morning Begins

How do you begin to describe your last day in the Mara?

Perhaps with a question.

As we rolled out in the early morning, Denis—my ever-curious guide—asked,
“What would you like to see today?”
I smiled. “Whatever we can.”
No checklist. No expectations. Just openness. And somehow, that became the theme of the day.


🐃 Buffaloes, Tension, and the Echo of a Predator

We headed into an area often frequented by rhinos and leopards, but it was a large herd of Cape buffalo that greeted us instead. Their energy was different—tense, alert. As our vehicle approached, a young male gave a warning grunt. We slowed down, gave them space, and eventually he returned to grazing.

Denis pointed to the pugmarks of a large cat in the dirt. The herd had calves—perhaps they were hunted during the night, and the trauma lingered. A little further, two adult males mock-charged us before fading into the grass.

We hadn’t seen a rhino or leopard, but the story told through behaviour and footprints was just as compelling.


🐘 Wandering Giants and Resting Lions

Further along, a lone male elephant, likely in search of a mate, walked across the plains. We waited patiently for him to move on before continuing.

Among the tall grasses, we saw a lioness. The area was filled with antelope—potential prey. Soon, we spotted another lioness nearby. Would they hunt? We waited, watched.

But no. They stretched, yawned, and settled into the shade.
Nature’s quiet truth: even predators don’t kill without need.


🦓 Zebras, Hartebeest, and a Royal Blockade

Our path was soon blocked by a herd of zebras, strutting confidently until they decided we were worth letting through. We passed them and found a lone hartebeest, calmly grazing.

The drama of the day had quieted. But the Mara is never still for long.


🛖 Meeting the Maasai: Culture, Community, and Resilience

No safari is truly complete without a visit to a Maasai village.

We arrived to warm smiles, a spirited traditional welcome dance, and an invitation into their world. The community, while rooted in its customs, has embraced modernity with measured grace. Many still wear their vibrant traditional shukas, and I had the privilege of visiting a typical Maasai hut, witnessing fire-making with ancestral techniques, and learning about their way of life.

The village had over 230 residents, all related. My guide was one of the first four people in the village to be educated. Since the 1990s, the community has prioritised education, opening a school on community land funded entirely through tourism.

One unforgettable moment: being shown a ceremonial lion headgear, mane intact, used in rites of passage. A physical link to ancient tradition.


🐾 The Wild Continues: Hyenas, Cheetahs, and Vultures

Post-lunch, we returned to the reserve.

First came two hyenas, emerging from the swamp, rolling on dry earth like mischievous puppies. They paused long enough for a perfect photograph before melting into the tall grass.

Next, a huddle of vehicles pointed to three cheetahs, napping under a bush—impervious to the click of cameras. Further along, we saw vultures on the ground, circling something.

We approached carefully.

A wounded male gazelle was lying on the earth, breathing heavily. A deep wound marked its flank. The vultures waited, patient and merciless.
Nature’s second lesson of the day: survival belongs to the fittest.

A little later, we joined another cluster of vehicles to find a lone lion, resting silently in the open field.


🪶 The Parting Gift

As the sun began to dip, we started the journey back. But the Mara wasn’t done yet.

An ostrich strutted into view—posing perfectly, as if it knew this was my last day.

And then, my final memory:
Grasslands dotted with zebras, wildebeest, elands, topis, gazelles—and just before the gate, a group of giraffes, statuesque and still, silhouetted against the amber light.


🧡 Goodbye, Mara

Six days.
Countless memories.
No two moments alike.

From the silence of stalking predators to the rustle of hoofbeats across the plains… the Mara gave me more than a safari. It gave me stories, stillness, and a deeper connection to the wild.

The savannah has a rhythm—and for six unforgettable days, I walked in time with it.


Kenya Safari Diary – Day 5: Balloons, Crossings & the Thrill of the Wild

🎈 A Postcard Comes Alive

A few years ago, I had come across a postcard that showed hot air balloons floating over the Maasai Mara at sunrise. That image stuck with me. So when I first planned this trip, the idea of a balloon safari was very much on my wishlist. But I was told all slots were full.

Then, two days ago—a surprise opening. No second thoughts. I booked it.


🌅 Sunrise in the Skies: The Balloon Safari Experience

Balloon safaris in Mara start before dawn. The early hours offer the best chance to watch the animals wake up with the sun. Each basket is divided into four sections, seating four people each.

As I waited with the group, I noticed two more women who, like me, weren’t particularly tall. The captain quickly grouped us together. That’s how I met Joyce and Jasmine, friendly fellow travellers from Singapore. Soon, we were chatting like old friends.

After a short safety briefing, we boarded. The balloon lifted slowly into the glowing sky—and below us, Mara came alive.

We floated above gazelles, foxes, and giraffes. Two lionesses strolled with majestic calm. A lone elephant, startled by the balloon’s hiss, scampered into the bush. Then, as we glided over the Talek River, we saw them—hundreds of wildebeest and zebras, grazing in massive herds. Further below, hippos wallowed in the water.

One magical hour passed in a heartbeat.


🥂 Bush Breakfast: A Meal to Remember

We landed softly on the plains and were greeted with a sumptuous bush breakfast—complete with an omelette station. Eating breakfast in the middle of the Mara, still buzzing from the flight, felt almost surreal.

After saying my goodbyes to Joyce and Jasmine and meeting up with Denis, it was time to chase another dream: witnessing the Great Migration river crossing.


🐃 The Waiting Game: Wildebeest at the Mara River

Our mission was clear: spot the wildebeest crossing the Mara River.

We began driving along the river’s edge. Crocodiles lay sunbathing on the banks. A family of hippos relaxed on a sandbar in the middle. And then—we saw a herd of wildebeest gathering at the edge.

Denis nodded. “They’re thinking about it.”

Soon, other vehicles joined us. Park rangers arrived and parked strategically, ensuring no game vehicles got too close and disturbed the herd. The waiting game began at 9:40 AM.

For hours, we watched the wildebeest inch toward the bank, only to retreat. Vehicles came and went. But I stayed—standing on the seat, glued to my binoculars. So did Denis.

And then, suddenly—movement.

Denis told me to sit. “It’s about to start. And when it starts, it gets wild—among the drivers.”

Engines roared. Vehicles surged toward the edge. The rangers were respectfully ignored. Denis, master of the moment, got us a perfect spot.

And then… it happened.

One wildebeest jumped into the river. The others followed. A chaos of hooves, splashes, dust, and instinct.

Years of watching this on screen didn’t dull the impact. Seeing it live, raw, unfiltered—was nothing short of breathtaking. The four-hour wait felt worth every second.


🧺 Lunch with a View (and a Baboon)

With my heart full, my stomach reminded me it was empty. Luckily, I had a picnic lunch packed for the full-day drive. We found a shaded spot, laid out a rug, and I tucked into my meal—under the close surveillance of a baboon and a marabou stork.


🦁 The Afternoon Watch: Lions, Cheetahs, and a Hyena

Post-lunch, we went in search of more wildlife—and Mara delivered.

We found four lions sleeping under a bush, unfazed by clicking cameras and murmurs. Park rangers arrived, gently dispersing the crowd to avoid stress on the animals. A little further, we saw a solitary lion lying in the grass. Again, as vehicles gathered, a ranger arrived to maintain the calm.

Later, we drove to the Kenya-Tanzania border for a quick photo-op, then spotted herds of Eland and Topi on the open plains.

Just as the afternoon light turned golden, the radio buzzed again—a cheetah had made a fresh kill. We rushed to the location. There she was, panting in the shade, having just taken down a gazelle.

As the day neared its end, I squinted at something in the distance.
“Is that an elephant?” I asked.
Denis laughed, “I think you’re just tired.”
Then, “Have you seen a hyena yet?”
We set off—and found a lone hyena resting in the shade, completing yet another chapter in this day’s wildlife drama.


🐘 One Last Surprise

As we made our way back to the lodge, the real elephants appeared—lumbering through the golden grass, just in time to remind me that in the Mara, the wild always has the last word.

Kenya Diary – Day 4: The Magic of Maasai Mara

After an unforgettable time in Samburu and Lake Naivasha, it was time to head to the crown jewel of Kenya’s wilderness—Maasai Mara. The drive from Naivasha was smooth, the scenery rolling and expansive. Somewhere along the highway, I was treated to a scene straight out of a nature documentary: giraffes casually crossing the road while long-haul trucks bound for Uganda came to a respectful stop. That moment said everything—Kenya, like India, is a land where humans and animals have coexisted for centuries. The roads might belong to us, but the land? It belongs to all.

An Influencer Moment… That Was Real

I arrived at my lodge in the Nashulai Maasai Conservancy, adjacent to the Mara Reserve. As I was being briefed, someone mentioned that wildlife often roams the property—zebras, giraffes, antelopes, the works. I smiled politely, silently filing it away under “influencer exaggeration.”

But as I walked into my tent, I stopped in my tracks. Two zebras were grazing calmly right outside. Unbothered by my presence. Completely at home. Apparently, those influencer videos were real after all.

Into the Mara

Post-lunch, I was itching to head into the Mara Game Reserve, but Denis—my guide and voice of reason—suggested we wait till 3:00 PM for better sightings. By 2:30, I was already in the vehicle.

As soon as we entered the park, the Mara began to unfold its magic.

First, a lone elephant stood tall in the golden grass.
“In India, elephants are considered lucky,” I told Denis.
He smiled, “Then Mara is welcoming you.”

Next came herds of zebras, followed by wildebeest, impalas, and Thomson’s gazelles grazing together in peaceful coexistence. The giraffes soon followed—towering, gentle silhouettes against the sky. One of them turned ever so slightly, as if offering a perfect pose. I took the shot.

The Leopard in the Tree

Suddenly, the radio crackled with excitement. Denis stepped on the gas. We arrived at a clearing where at least 20 vehicles had gathered under a single tree. Up in its branches, a leopard, perfectly camouflaged, draped across the limbs with feline grace. Through the binoculars, I spotted its kill—an impala—tucked carefully into a crook of the tree.

And then, as if aware of all the attention, the leopard shifted. Slowly, dramatically, from one branch to another. And then descended—regal, deliberate, unhurried—before disappearing into the grass. A moment I will never forget.

More Elephants, Lion Cubs, and a Buffalo Parade

We continued, only to find a larger herd of elephants, slowly making their way to a lone tree. One stopped to scratch its back, reminding me once again how relatable elephants are—gentle giants with very human gestures.

Further along, two vehicles stood near a bush, cameras poised. We slowed down and waited. Soon, three lionesses emerged, followed by a tumble of cubs, rolling and pouncing on each other in playful chaos. For a few minutes, we all watched in reverent silence. But as more tourists gathered, the lions melted back into the bush.

As we turned to leave the park, thinking the day couldn’t offer more, a herd of Cape Buffaloes made their appearance—one of Africa’s Big Five. We waited as they crossed the road, closing the day with quiet power.

A Day of Living Documentaries

You can watch all the wildlife documentaries in the world, but nothing prepares you for the real thing—for the silence before a leopard moves, for the thunderous stillness of buffaloes, for the fluttering tails of lion cubs in grass.

The Mara doesn’t just show you wildlife—it welcomes you into its ancient rhythm. And on this day, it felt like it was opening its arms just for me.

Kenya Diary – Day Two: Of Giants, Hunters, and a Spoiled Romance

My second day on the African safari began with unexpected laughter. Denis, my ever-practical guide, had insisted we start early—6:30 a.m. sharp—to catch the best wildlife action. Dutifully ready, I arrived at the lodge reception, eager for another day in Samburu.

As Denis prepared the safari vehicle, he opened the hood—a typical practice to allow unobstructed viewing from the top. Then he turned to me, paused, and stated, quite matter-of-factly, “You are short.”

He wasn’t wrong. At barely five feet, the open-top vantage point posed a bit of a challenge. But Denis, quick with a solution, added, “I think you can remove your shoes and stand on the seat.”

And that’s how my morning began—shoeless, grinning, and standing on the seat, ready to meet the wild.

Samburu is known for its unique quintet of wildlife—The Samburu Special Five: the Reticulated Giraffe, Grevy’s Zebra, Beisa Oryx, Somali Ostrich, and Gerenuk. These arid-adapted species are rarely seen in other Kenyan parks, making sightings here all the more special.

Our day opened with a gentle procession of Reticulated Giraffes, their elegant frames swaying as they nibbled the treetops, impervious to our awestruck gazes. Shortly after, a herd of impalas darted past, as if to say, Welcome to Samburu.

Then came the buzz on the radio—a herd of elephants had been spotted. We raced over and found them, including three playful calves, feeding leisurely as they made their way toward the river. We waited for the herd to cross the road. Just when we thought the last elephant had passed, the matriarch emerged—large, composed, and watchful. She brought up the rear like a regal guardian.

Soon, another radio alert sent us speeding across the terrain again—lions had been seen. In the tall grass, barely visible, we found three lionesses and four cubs, perfectly camouflaged. I raised my binoculars and scanned the horizon—impalas, zebras, and oryx were alert, nervously watching. The lionesses, thin and determined, moved slowly but purposefully toward the prey. In the wild, even the top predator must earn every meal.

As I was still processing the sheer majesty of these moments, Denis pointed out a pair of Gerenuks, the long-necked antelopes that stand upright to feed. But they darted off before we could get close.

Further ahead, a female Somali ostrich and her two young paused mid-stride, stared at us with curious eyes, and then—deciding we were harmless—ambled away.

Yet again, the radio crackled—a cheetah had been sighted. We sped to the location and found her resting in the shade, catching her breath beside a fresh kill—a Kirk’s dik-dik. Denis maneuvered the vehicle for the perfect view. The cheetah, the fastest creature on earth, was now a picture of stillness, her sides heaving gently as she gnawed at the bones.

Next on our checklist: the remaining members of the Samburu Five. After scanning the reserve for a while, we found them at last—Grevy’s Zebra and Beisa Oryx, grazing side by side under the open sky. Sightings complete, we began our journey back to the lodge, satisfied.

But Samburu wasn’t done with me yet.

As we rolled along, I noticed two elephants, one on either side of the road. “They’re courting,” Denis explained. We paused, holding our breath. Slowly, the two approached each other and gently touched trunks—a moment so tender it felt almost sacred. But the female clearly didn’t appreciate our intrusion. With a swish of her tail, she turned and walked away. The male turned to us and lingered. In his eyes, I imagined a mildly annoyed question: Did you really have to ruin that?

By now, the sun was high and the air heavy with heat. Just then, the radio crackled again—another lion sighting. We drove to the spot to find several safari vehicles gathered. A lion and a lioness lay in the shade, seemingly unfazed by their human audience. But as more vehicles arrived, the lion gave an irritated grunt, stood up, and disappeared into the bush, his privacy duly invaded.

Thus ended my second day in Samburu—a symphony of sightings, from giraffes to courting elephants, lions on the hunt to the cheetah at rest. The bush, with all its drama and dignity, had begun to reveal its soul. And I knew—this safari was only getting better.


Waking Dreams: First Impressions of Kenya

African wildlife has held a magnetic pull on me for as long as I can remember—an affinity nurtured by countless hours spent watching Nat Geo and Discovery Channel documentaries. Over time, the dream of witnessing this raw, untamed wilderness evolved into a constant on my ever-expanding bucket list.

Lately, I’ve come to think of bucket lists not as final checklists but as wish wells—meant to be drawn from and replenished continually. The desire to visit Africa had been simmering quietly for years, but it was a chance encounter with an article on the Great Migration that finally tipped the balance. A flurry of research followed, and just like that, a trip to Kenya was set in motion.

The journey from New Delhi to Nairobi was long and tiring, but the moment I landed, a sense of quiet excitement took over. The true beginning of my Kenyan adventure, however, was the drive from Nairobi to Samburu. Samburu lies in northern Kenya, a rugged, remote stretch of land about five to six hours from the capital.

My driver and guide, Denis, was a revelation. Warm, curious, and deeply informed, he peppered our journey with questions—about Indian politics, elections, population, healthcare, and industry. It struck me how much Kenya and India, for all their geographic distance, shared in common: teeming populations, colonial histories, emerging economies, and an abiding concern for the future.

As we cruised down the highway, a lush green blur caught my eye. Denis noticed my curiosity and pointed out that the trees were mango orchards. “In February,” he said, “they’re filled with fruit, and people flock here from nearby villages.” To discover mangoes—India’s beloved king of fruits—thriving in a distant African land felt both surreal and oddly comforting.

A little later, we passed a village where two young girls were seated on the steps of a small shop. They waved enthusiastically at our vehicle. I smiled and waved back, instinctively transported to my childhood in Arunachal Pradesh, where I too would greet passing vehicles with the same innocent joy.

Denis chuckled, “Light-skinned people are rare in these parts—they’re happy you waved back.”
I was momentarily surprised. By Indian standards, I have a darker complexion, yet here, I was ‘light-skinned.’
When I told Denis this, he glanced at me through the rearview mirror and asked earnestly, “Is that good or bad?”

It was a simple question, but one loaded with cultural weight. How could I possibly explain the Indian obsession with fairness, the countless fairness creams, matrimonial filters, and coded compliments? I smiled, choosing instead to steer the conversation elsewhere.

Nearly six hours into our journey, we finally reached Samburu. My lodge was nestled inside the game reserve. As soon as we entered the park, I saw her—a lone giraffe standing tall, unbothered, majestic. Moments later, a zebra appeared. It felt as if the wildlife I’d spent decades admiring on screen had stepped forward to greet me in person.

My long-held wish was no longer just a dream. It was real, and it had only just begun.