All posts by Jajabor

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About Jajabor

My best memories have always been my journeys. Observing people, places, nuances, customs, food habits, clothes, and little idiosyncrasies—that’s my favorite pastime. Somewhere along the way, without even realizing it, I fell in love with traveling. And no, I’m not talking about the packaged kind with fixed itineraries and hurried photo stops. I’m talking about unraveling a place—layer by layer. Because the best memories of a trip are rarely from what’s printed in the brochure; they’re born from the moments beyond it. For safety, I might let a tour operator book my hotels, but the rest? That’s mine to discover. I read about the place, strike up conversations with locals, and follow history’s faint whispers down winding lanes. There’s a certain thrill in peeling back a place’s layers—its stories, its silences, its soul. I hope, through my words, I can share that thrill with you.

Waking Dreams: First Impressions of Kenya

African wildlife has held a magnetic pull on me for as long as I can remember—an affinity nurtured by countless hours spent watching Nat Geo and Discovery Channel documentaries. Over time, the dream of witnessing this raw, untamed wilderness evolved into a constant on my ever-expanding bucket list.

Lately, I’ve come to think of bucket lists not as final checklists but as wish wells—meant to be drawn from and replenished continually. The desire to visit Africa had been simmering quietly for years, but it was a chance encounter with an article on the Great Migration that finally tipped the balance. A flurry of research followed, and just like that, a trip to Kenya was set in motion.

The journey from New Delhi to Nairobi was long and tiring, but the moment I landed, a sense of quiet excitement took over. The true beginning of my Kenyan adventure, however, was the drive from Nairobi to Samburu. Samburu lies in northern Kenya, a rugged, remote stretch of land about five to six hours from the capital.

My driver and guide, Denis, was a revelation. Warm, curious, and deeply informed, he peppered our journey with questions—about Indian politics, elections, population, healthcare, and industry. It struck me how much Kenya and India, for all their geographic distance, shared in common: teeming populations, colonial histories, emerging economies, and an abiding concern for the future.

As we cruised down the highway, a lush green blur caught my eye. Denis noticed my curiosity and pointed out that the trees were mango orchards. “In February,” he said, “they’re filled with fruit, and people flock here from nearby villages.” To discover mangoes—India’s beloved king of fruits—thriving in a distant African land felt both surreal and oddly comforting.

A little later, we passed a village where two young girls were seated on the steps of a small shop. They waved enthusiastically at our vehicle. I smiled and waved back, instinctively transported to my childhood in Arunachal Pradesh, where I too would greet passing vehicles with the same innocent joy.

Denis chuckled, “Light-skinned people are rare in these parts—they’re happy you waved back.”
I was momentarily surprised. By Indian standards, I have a darker complexion, yet here, I was ‘light-skinned.’
When I told Denis this, he glanced at me through the rearview mirror and asked earnestly, “Is that good or bad?”

It was a simple question, but one loaded with cultural weight. How could I possibly explain the Indian obsession with fairness, the countless fairness creams, matrimonial filters, and coded compliments? I smiled, choosing instead to steer the conversation elsewhere.

Nearly six hours into our journey, we finally reached Samburu. My lodge was nestled inside the game reserve. As soon as we entered the park, I saw her—a lone giraffe standing tall, unbothered, majestic. Moments later, a zebra appeared. It felt as if the wildlife I’d spent decades admiring on screen had stepped forward to greet me in person.

My long-held wish was no longer just a dream. It was real, and it had only just begun.

Tracing Flowers, Faith, and Forgotten Thrones: A Walk Through Mehrauli’s Living History

Delhi doesn’t reveal itself all at once. It unspools in layers — a whisper here, a ruin there, a breeze carrying the scent of marigolds and memory. On a quiet Sunday morning, I joined a heritage walk curated by Enroute Indian History, tracing the sacred and ceremonial path of Phoolwalon ki Sair — the annual festival of flowers, peace, and communal harmony held in Mehrauli.

But what I encountered was far more than just a trail of rituals — it was a journey through the soul of Delhi.


Where the City Began: Yogmaya Temple

Our walk began at the Yogmaya Temple, one of the few surviving temples from ancient Delhi and possibly as old as the city itself. It stands tucked away in the heart of Mehrauli, quiet yet powerful, like the still eye of a storm that has raged for centuries around it.

Long before Mehrauli acquired its present name, the area was known as Yoginipur — the city of yoginis. The temple, dedicated to Goddess Yogmaya (a sister of Krishna in mythology), still plays a central role during Phoolwalon ki Sair, with floral offerings made here alongside those at the nearby Dargah. As we stood beneath the age-worn arches, time itself seemed to slow down.


A Tomb with a Curse: Adam Khan’s Memorial

Not far from the temple, we made a detour to the tomb of Adam Khan, a monument steeped in local lore. Adam Khan, the foster brother of Akbar, was executed for treason, flung twice from the ramparts of Agra Fort to ensure death.

His tomb stands out for its Indo-Islamic architecture, reminiscent of Delhi Sultanate-era design rather than typical Mughal grandeur. It is said that no local woman of Mehrauli visits the tomb, believing it to be cursed. The only women who do are usually tourists or history students, like us. The air around the tomb is oddly heavy — less reverence, more caution.


A Sacred Journey: Dargah of Khwaja Bakhtiyar Kaki

We then followed the festival’s spiritual trail to the Dargah of Khwaja Bakhtiyar Kaki, the 13th-century Sufi saint and disciple of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti of Ajmer. A contemporary of Sultan Iltutmish, Kaki is revered as one of Delhi’s patron saints, and his shrine continues to draw pilgrims, politicians, and poets.

It is said that every ruler of Delhi sought the blessings of Sufi saints to gain legitimacy, and this Dargah, in particular, carries that aura of sanctified power.

As we stepped inside the whitewashed courtyard, a qawwal seated by the gateway began to sing. His voice, deep and raw, cut through the morning stillness, carrying the lyrics of Chaap Tilak. The Dargah came alive — not with grandeur, but with music, faith, and centuries of longing.


A Forgotten Well of Healing: Gandak ki Bawli

On the way to the Dargah, we stopped at the near-forgotten Gandak ki Bawli — a stepwell slowly sinking into neglect, yet once central to local life. Gifted by Iltutmish to the Dargah, the stepwell was believed to possess healing powers, and pilgrims would take a dip in its waters before offering prayers.

Later studies revealed the water had a high sulphur content, lending some scientific basis to the belief that it could cure skin ailments and other illnesses. Today, the water is stagnant, the steps cracked, but the legend still lingers — like a half-remembered dream.


Where the Empire Withered: Zafar Mahal

The final stop of our walk was the Zafar Mahal, the summer residence of Bahadur Shah Zafar, Delhi’s last Mughal emperor. Mehrauli, cooler than the rest of Delhi due to its elevation and greenery, became the seasonal retreat of the royal court. And this retreat wasn’t symbolic — the emperor moved with his whole retinue, even shifting the throne to Mehrauli for the duration.

Inside the Mahal is the Moti Masjid, a private prayer space built by Zafar himself. But the site is not just a reminder of royal solitude — it is also the stage for a powerful piece of local lore.

People in Mehrauli still say that the proximity of Zafar Mahal to the Dargah was a fateful misstep. “Sufi badshah se bada hota hai,” they say — a Sufi saint is greater than a king. Perhaps it was no coincidence, they whisper, that the Mughal Empire collapsed soon after. Bahadur Shah Zafar, the poet-emperor, would eventually die in exile, far from his beloved Delhi, and never be laid to rest in the tomb he had built for himself beside the Dargah.


A City of Shadows and Fragrance

As I walked back through Mehrauli’s bylanes, the scent of mogra, the hum of old qawwalis, and the echoes of royal processions accompanied me. Delhi, I realized, isn’t just a city of monuments — it is a city of memory, myth, and mood. Every stone here remembers. Every shrine still breathes.

Phoolwalon ki Sair may be celebrated once a year, but the path it takes is eternal — a living map of Delhi’s soul, etched in fragrance, footsteps, and faith.


Buddhist Trails in Tripura

It was a small news item, years ago, that first caught my attention — a report on an eighteen-armed sculpture of a mother goddess in a place called Pilak. The name lodged itself in my mind, stirring curiosity. I tried convincing colleagues at work to join me on a trip to see it, but the plan never took off. Worse, a few went on their own during a visit to South Tripura and returned claiming there was no such sculpture at all.

So Pilak had to wait.

Two years later, my mother came visiting. She, like me, has an appetite for history. Suddenly, I had the perfect travel companion. We decided to spend a Saturday exploring the Buddhist heritage of Tripura, sculpture or no sculpture.

First Stop: Maharani Pagoda

Flipping through the state tourism brochure, we decided to start from the far south — the Mahamuni Pagoda at Manubankul village in Sabroom subdivision, 134 km from Agartala. We had also read about an old monastery nearby, but despite asking locals, we couldn’t find it. The day was hot, humid, and off to a slow start.

The pagoda, when we finally stood before it, was less impressive than its photographs. I couldn’t help remembering my colleagues’ disappointment and wondered if our trip was ill-fated. But neither of us was ready to give up.

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The pagoda, which looks more beautiful in photographs

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Monks take their vows here.

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Met this Chakma Monk from Bangladesh

Pilak — Where Faith Meets Preservation

Our driver, to my relief, knew exactly where Pilak was. This archaeological site in Belonia subdivision has been revealing treasures since 1927 — sculptures and structures tied to both Buddhism and Hinduism, dating back to the 8th–12th centuries.

Once part of the Samatata kingdom in historical Bengal, Pilak’s finds link it to other great Buddhist sites like Mainamati and Somapura Mahavihara in present-day Bangladesh. Its artifacts bear the marks of Bengal’s Palas and Guptas, the Arakan style of Myanmar, and indigenous craftsmanship.

Excavations by the Archaeological Survey of India in the 1960s uncovered brick stupas and large stone sculptures of Avalokiteśvara and Narasimha, as well as numerous Hindu deities like Shiva, Surya, and Vaishnavi. Pilak is remarkable for the diversity of Buddhist traditions it reflects — Hinayana, Mahayana, and Vajrayana.

Some finds are especially striking:

  • Avalokiteśvara — now at the Tripura Government Museum in Ujjayanta Palace.

  • Goddess Marichi — an 8th–9th century Mahayana-Vajrayana icon, now worshipped in a Hindu temple known as Vasudev-badi.

  • Chunda — an 18-armed figure from the 8th–9th century, now revered as Raja Rajeshwari.

  • A stupa from Sundari Tilla — dating to the 11th century, echoing the Pala style.

  • Sun God Surya — riding his chariot of seven horses, from the Sagardheba mound.

At Pilak, faith often redefines history. Sacred icons have been moved from excavation sites to local temples, where they are worshipped in forms quite different from their original context.

Some glimpses of Pilak

A ‘Seshnag’ sculpture, which is worshiped as Shiva in this temple, is almost next door to the above archaeological site

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A Ganesha Sculpture kept almost open in the nearby village

The eighteen handed goddess Tara in Raja Rajeshwar Temple

Boxanagar — A Forest Yields a Secret

Our final stop was Boxanagar in Sonamura subdivision, West Tripura — a relatively recent discovery. Here, the ruins of a brick-built structure emerged after a patch of forest was cleared near the Bangladesh border. Locals thought it was a temple of Manasaa, the snake goddess.

In 1997, the ASI unearthed a Buddha sculpture, confirming the site was once a Buddhist temple, possibly active from the 8th to 12th centuries. Archaeologists believe it played a role in spreading Buddhism in the region.

A much better preserved site at Boxanagar

Home with History

By evening, we were back in Agartala, tired but satisfied. The day had been a journey not just through distance, but through centuries — an exploration of how faith, history, and heritage intertwine in the quiet corners of Tripura.

Sojourn to a Land of Mysterious Carvings — Chabimura, Tripura

It was a photograph in a Tripura tourism brochure that caught my eye years ago — a rock carving so striking that it seemed to hold a secret. There was something about its sheer size and quiet grandeur that stayed with me. I knew I had to see it.

But fate had other plans. Every time I made arrangements, the trip was mysteriously derailed. Plans got postponed, cancelled, and reimagined. And yet, with each failed attempt, my determination grew.

Finally, after almost a year of planning, cancelling, and planning again, I set out in January 2016 for Chabimura, also known as Devtamura — a secluded treasure 75 kilometres from Agartala.


A Hidden Heritage on the Gomti River

Chabimura’s rock carvings are accessible only by boat, which adds to their mystique. Their exact origins remain uncertain, but according to historical accounts, they may date back to the 15th–16th centuries, marking the revival of Brahmanism in the region as Buddhist influence waned in India.

The site is home to 37 colossal carvings etched into the steep slopes of the Kalajhari Hills — including figures of Shiva, Parvati, Ganesha, Kartikeya, Mahishasuramardini, and Durga. The artists are unknown, as is the purpose behind these monumental works. What is certain is their scale and impact: each figure carved directly into rock faces that rise almost vertically above the Gomti River.


The Journey is Half the Wonder

The magic begins the moment you step onto the boat. The Gomti flows gently, flanked on both sides by hills sloping at dramatic angles of 70–90 degrees. With each bend, the river seems to whisper of something just out of sight.

I remember wondering — how did anyone reach these heights centuries ago, let alone carve into them with such precision? And then, around a quiet bend, the first carving came into view: massive, commanding, and yet serene.

Before I could look away, someone on the boat called out, “Hey, one more!” Sure enough, the hills kept revealing carving after carving, each emerging from the rock like a guardian watching over the river.


Why Winter is the Best Season to Visit

Chabimura is a year-round site, but winter transforms it entirely. The soft fog over the Gomti, the gentle mist rising from the water, and the crisp chill in the air turn the journey into something almost dreamlike.

I only had my mobile phone with me (yes, a bit of a sacrilege for a place like this), but that didn’t stop me from trying to capture its magic. Photographs may give you a glimpse, but being there — with the silence of the river, the looming cliffs, and the timeless carvings — is an experience that can’t be replicated.


Travel Notes

  • Getting There: Chabimura is about 75 km from Agartala. You’ll need to drive to the river point and then hire a boat.

  • Boat Ride: The journey to the carvings takes about 30–40 minutes each way.

  • Best Time to Visit: November to February, when the weather is cool and the river carries its winter mist.

  • Tip: Carry a camera — you’ll regret it if you don’t.


Chabimura is not just about history or archaeology. It’s about the journey — about gliding on a quiet river, turning a corner, and suddenly locking eyes with a 500-year-old carving that has been watching the world go by for centuries.

Sometimes, the road less travelled is a river.

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The first set of rock carvings

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The boatman who would point out the carvings

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Doesn’t it look Amazonian?

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Lush green forest on either side, with winter sun spreading warmth

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The river slowly meanders its way

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This was the picture that got me interested.

Temple Run in an old capital

A mid-week holiday is always a bonus. In Tripura, Garia Puja—a local festival—fell on April 21, 2015, giving us the rare joy of a Tuesday off. For once, Monday felt a little lighter.

By then, I had been in Tripura for almost a year. While the state is rich in history and heritage, I had noticed that many of its treasures remain under-publicised and, consequently, under-visited. Tripura, one of India’s Seven Sisters in the northeast, is a small, predominantly tribal state with a surprisingly rich royal past. The present-day capital, Agartala, is well-connected by air from major Indian cities, but it is the old capital—Udaipur—that holds some of the most intriguing historical gems.

The Search Begins

My late-blooming love for heritage sites meant that I now actively sought out every nugget of history I could find. One day, while browsing online, I stumbled upon a photograph of Bhubaneswari Temple in Udaipur. What piqued my interest further was the fact that Rabindranath Tagore had mentioned it in his novel Rajarshi.

Holiday in hand, I convinced two colleagues to join me. We hired a car, only to find that our driver had never heard of Bhubaneswari Temple. His explanation was simple: “No one goes there. People go to Udaipur to visit Tripura Sundari Temple—Mata Bari—one of the revered Shakti Peeths.”

Undeterred, we decided to head to Udaipur anyway, certain that locals there would know. Udaipur lies about 55 km from Agartala, and in just over an hour, we reached the town and began our search.

An Unexpected Find – The Chaturdas Devata Temple

Winding through Udaipur’s narrow lanes, we spotted a set of temples and stopped, thinking we had arrived. Instead, it turned out to be a Shiva temple. But nearby, two smaller temples preserved by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) caught our attention.

The signboard revealed that this was the Chaturdas Devata Temple—the Temple of Fourteen Gods. The fourteen deities include Shiva, Durga, Vishnu, Lakshmi, Saraswati, Kartikeya, Ganesha, Brahma, Prithvi, Samudra, Ganga, Agni, Kamadeva, and Himadri. These were the presiding deities of Tripura’s royal house, worshipped by special priests known as Cantais.

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Chaturdas Devata Temple

It was a reminder of Tripura’s glorious past. At its zenith in the 14th and 15th centuries, the Tripura kingdom stretched from the Brahmaputra in the north and west to the Bay of Bengal in the south, and as far as Myanmar in the east. Udaipur—then called Rangamati—was their capital, and home to temples honouring their royal patrons.

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These rock carvings stood at the entrance of the temple

The Gunabati Group of Temples

Our quest continued, and soon we stumbled upon another surprise: the Gunabati Group of Temples. Hidden in a residential area, these temples’ origins remain obscure. Only one stone inscription sheds light—it states that one was built in 1668 CE in the name of Maharani Gunabati, wife of Maharaja Govinda Manikya. The other two temples appear to be from the same era, but their stories remain untold.

I couldn’t help but wonder about the Queen herself. How remarkable must she have been to have temples dedicated to her?

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Gunabati Group of Temples

A Hilltop Gem – Bhubaneswari Temple

Just as our car began ascending another hill, we passed the ruins of a Laxmi-Narayan Temple—a silent witness to the passage of centuries. Finally, we reached our destination: Bhubaneswari Temple.

Built between 1667 and 1676 CE during Maharaja Govinda Manikya’s reign, the temple sits on a 3-foot-high terrace. Its roof follows the distinctive four-chaala style, with stupa-like crowns on both the vestibule and core chamber. The main stupa is adorned with floral motifs, adding a delicate charm to its regal presence.

With the River Gomti flowing nearby, the temple radiates a serene calm. The absence of crowds meant no noise, no clutter—just the quiet dignity of history.

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Even the ruins were so beautiful

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Bhubaneswari Temple

More Than a Trip, A Time Travel

Our “temple run” through Udaipur turned into a journey through Tripura’s layered history—from royal deities to queens, from ruined shrines to hilltop sanctuaries. It was a reminder that sometimes, the lesser-known sites tell the richest stories—if only we take the time to seek them out.