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It was a photograph in a Tripura tourism brochure that caught my eye years ago — a rock carving so striking that it seemed to hold a secret. There was something about its sheer size and quiet grandeur that stayed with me. I knew I had to see it.

But fate had other plans. Every time I made arrangements, the trip was mysteriously derailed. Plans got postponed, cancelled, and reimagined. And yet, with each failed attempt, my determination grew.

Finally, after almost a year of planning, cancelling, and planning again, I set out in January 2016 for Chabimura, also known as Devtamura — a secluded treasure 75 kilometres from Agartala.

A Hidden Heritage on the Gomti River

Chabimura’s rock carvings are accessible only by boat, which adds to their mystique. Their exact origins remain uncertain, but according to historical accounts, they may date back to the 15th–16th centuries, marking the revival of Brahmanism in the region as Buddhist influence waned in India.

The site is home to 37 colossal carvings etched into the steep slopes of the Kalajhari Hills — including figures of Shiva, Parvati, Ganesha, Kartikeya, Mahishasuramardini, and Durga. The artists are unknown, as is the purpose behind these monumental works. What is certain is their scale and impact: each figure carved directly into rock faces that rise almost vertically above the Gomti River.

The Journey is Half the Wonder

The magic begins the moment you step onto the boat. The Gomti flows gently, flanked on both sides by hills sloping at dramatic angles of 70–90 degrees. With each bend, the river seems to whisper of something just out of sight.

I remember wondering — how did anyone reach these heights centuries ago, let alone carve into them with such precision? And then, around a quiet bend, the first carving came into view: massive, commanding, and yet serene.

Before I could look away, someone on the boat called out, “Hey, one more!” Sure enough, the hills kept revealing carving after carving, each emerging from the rock like a guardian watching over the river.

Why Winter is the Best Season to Visit

Chabimura is a year-round site, but winter transforms it entirely. The soft fog over the Gomti, the gentle mist rising from the water, and the crisp chill in the air turn the journey into something almost dreamlike.

I only had my mobile phone with me (yes, a bit of a sacrilege for a place like this), but that didn’t stop me from trying to capture its magic. Photographs may give you a glimpse, but being there — with the silence of the river, the looming cliffs, and the timeless carvings — is an experience that can’t be replicated.

Travel Notes

Getting There: Chabimura is about 75 km from Agartala. You’ll need to drive to the river point and then hire a boat.
Boat Ride: The journey to the carvings takes about 30–40 minutes each way.
Best Time to Visit: November to February, when the weather is cool and the river carries its winter mist.
Tip: Carry a camera — you’ll regret it if you don’t.

Chabimura is not just about history or archaeology. It’s about the journey — about gliding on a quiet river, turning a corner, and suddenly locking eyes with a 500-year-old carving that has been watching the world go by for centuries.

Sometimes, the road less travelled is a river.

The first set of rock carvings

The boatman who would point out the carvings

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Doesn’t it look Amazonian?

Lush green forest on either side, with winter sun spreading warmth

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The river slowly meanders its way

This was the picture that got me interested.

A mid-week holiday is always a bonus. In Tripura, Garia Puja—a local festival—fell on April 21, 2015, giving us the rare joy of a Tuesday off. For once, Monday felt a little lighter.

By then, I had been in Tripura for almost a year. While the state is rich in history and heritage, I had noticed that many of its treasures remain under-publicised and, consequently, under-visited. Tripura, one of India’s Seven Sisters in the northeast, is a small, predominantly tribal state with a surprisingly rich royal past. The present-day capital, Agartala, is well-connected by air from major Indian cities, but it is the old capital—Udaipur—that holds some of the most intriguing historical gems.

The Search Begins

My late-blooming love for heritage sites meant that I now actively sought out every nugget of history I could find. One day, while browsing online, I stumbled upon a photograph of Bhubaneswari Temple in Udaipur. What piqued my interest further was the fact that Rabindranath Tagore had mentioned it in his novel Rajarshi.

Holiday in hand, I convinced two colleagues to join me. We hired a car, only to find that our driver had never heard of Bhubaneswari Temple. His explanation was simple: “No one goes there. People go to Udaipur to visit Tripura Sundari Temple—Mata Bari—one of the revered Shakti Peeths.”

Undeterred, we decided to head to Udaipur anyway, certain that locals there would know. Udaipur lies about 55 km from Agartala, and in just over an hour, we reached the town and began our search.

An Unexpected Find – The Chaturdas Devata Temple

Winding through Udaipur’s narrow lanes, we spotted a set of temples and stopped, thinking we had arrived. Instead, it turned out to be a Shiva temple. But nearby, two smaller temples preserved by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) caught our attention.

The signboard revealed that this was the Chaturdas Devata Temple—the Temple of Fourteen Gods. The fourteen deities include Shiva, Durga, Vishnu, Lakshmi, Saraswati, Kartikeya, Ganesha, Brahma, Prithvi, Samudra, Ganga, Agni, Kamadeva, and Himadri. These were the presiding deities of Tripura’s royal house, worshipped by special priests known as Cantais.

Chaturdas Devata Temple

It was a reminder of Tripura’s glorious past. At its zenith in the 14th and 15th centuries, the Tripura kingdom stretched from the Brahmaputra in the north and west to the Bay of Bengal in the south, and as far as Myanmar in the east. Udaipur—then called Rangamati—was their capital, and home to temples honouring their royal patrons.

These rock carvings stood at the entrance of the temple

The Gunabati Group of Temples

Our quest continued, and soon we stumbled upon another surprise: the Gunabati Group of Temples. Hidden in a residential area, these temples’ origins remain obscure. Only one stone inscription sheds light—it states that one was built in 1668 CE in the name of Maharani Gunabati, wife of Maharaja Govinda Manikya. The other two temples appear to be from the same era, but their stories remain untold.

I couldn’t help but wonder about the Queen herself. How remarkable must she have been to have temples dedicated to her?

Gunabati Group of Temples

A Hilltop Gem – Bhubaneswari Temple

Just as our car began ascending another hill, we passed the ruins of a Laxmi-Narayan Temple—a silent witness to the passage of centuries. Finally, we reached our destination: Bhubaneswari Temple.

Built between 1667 and 1676 CE during Maharaja Govinda Manikya’s reign, the temple sits on a 3-foot-high terrace. Its roof follows the distinctive four-chaala style, with stupa-like crowns on both the vestibule and core chamber. The main stupa is adorned with floral motifs, adding a delicate charm to its regal presence.

With the River Gomti flowing nearby, the temple radiates a serene calm. The absence of crowds meant no noise, no clutter—just the quiet dignity of history.

Even the ruins were so beautiful

Bhubaneswari Temple

More Than a Trip, A Time Travel

Our “temple run” through Udaipur turned into a journey through Tripura’s layered history—from royal deities to queens, from ruined shrines to hilltop sanctuaries. It was a reminder that sometimes, the lesser-known sites tell the richest stories—if only we take the time to seek them out.

Jajabor

Life's a journey

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Sojourn to a Land of Mysterious Carvings — Chabimura, Tripura